I know that there are free period bodice patterns online, and so pulled up The National Garment Cutter Book of Diagrams, by Goldsberry and Doran, from 1888. The whole book is available for free from the Library of Congress' Internet Archive, so I can actually use patterns for the bodices without feeling like I'm cheating.
For Dean's bodice I choose the basque in the very front, because I liked the look. After drafting I realized that it had a 24 inch waist, and since one seam has an extra wide allowance, I could let it out a quarter inch and get an inch increase overall. My waist is 26 inches, corseted, but with the hem allowance at the center front I knew I'd be able to pin it at least partially shut and see how much it needed to be altered. The answer was: a lot.
Historical Sewing says is period.
|Pinning piping to just a single layer feels weird|
The bodice has two fish-eye darts on the front piece, so I used the Dreamstress' technique for sewing flatlined darts without wrinkles.
The main body of the bodice is done, now I'm currently in the process of mocking up the sleeves. Completed photos soon to follow.