Monday, April 7, 2014

Things are conspiring against me

So I have these two remnants in my stash, and they work pretty well together so I wanted to use them in an outfit.
To the left is a third of a yard of burgundy cotton velvet, and on the right is about half a yard of cotton upholstery print. The colors are similar without being matchy-matchy, but I didn't know what to do with them.

Flashback: I made a new friend and we were discussing favorite eras. I said 1880s (Second Bustle Era), she said 1870s (forgot to ask if she liked First Bustle or Natural Form). She also mentioned 1780s, so every once in a while I'll do searches for images in the 1780s, so see if there's anything I can get behind. I don't like panniers, and the flamboyance of Rococo is too much. There's a reason I prefer the tailored jackets and pleated skirts of the Late Bustle Era over the layer cake decadence of the mid-century Victorian. Good for other people, but not my cup of tea.

On one of my recent searches I discovered riding habits and redingotes. I like the habits more, the simple functionality over the frouffed up version, but it was something to get behind. And then I found this:
*Squee*

I loved it. The shape, the lace, the colors. The HAT! And I happened to have some velvet that would be perfect for the collar and while the print for the cuffs might not be accurate, it would be easier and certainly look beautiful. I had found it. Tell me, oh Pinterest, the details of this beauty I had discovered!

Amazzone Perugina, by Cesare Auguste Detti. (Born in Spolete, Italy December 28, 1847 and died in Paris May 19, 1914)

. . .

Born 1847

. . .

SON OF A BITCH!

Okay, so this wasn't a 18th century outfit; it is a late Victorian interpretation of a 18th century outfit. That's alright, I can work with that. Besides, technically everything Merja does at Before the Automobile is a modern interpretation of historical garments, and she looks like the time-travelling queen of period perfect. Maybe the artist wasn't too far from the mark?

Marie Antoinette - Joseph Kreutzinger 1771
Woman's Riding Habit. Italy. Circa 1780s
Mr. and Mrs Thomas Coltman - Joseph Wright 1770-1772
Riding Habit. United Kingdom, 1770 - 1775
Based of some period examples, the painting isn't too far off. The main things it got wrong were the collar and the cuffs. Le sigh.

Well that's that. I have enough on my plate now anyways, I don't need to be picking up ANOTHER project. Even if it is perfect. Even if Sew Historical Fortnightly has an art inspired challenge coming up. Even though I'm beginning to hit my stride and think I really can make all the costumes I planned.

So today I was at my friends' house doing laundry, and I figured I'd walk to Goodwill since it's less than a mile away. I may find something nifty. You know what I found?
This white cotton jacket with metallic floral embroidery that would be perfect for the waistcoat. It also has awesome buttons.
Not to mention this red wool jacket that also is super nice.
With military buttons.
So I started drafting images of my new 1770s riding habit, made from remnants and thrift store finds. (I like the 1770s more than the 1780s. 1780s lapels were weird.) I will be aiming for period, with the painting as inspiration. The cuffs will end closer to the wrist, the lace cuffs of the habit shirt will be closer to the jacket instead of extending way past. The collar will still be velvet, but will have a notch where it meets the lapels instead of being a shawl collar. The skirt of the jacket will be gored, using the extra fabric I take off the waist and back to make the bottom wider. I will be making stays, so I should be able to take off a good bit of fabric. I will also be on the look out for more fabric that is similar. More on this plan, as it develops.

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