I didn't have a pattern, but I soon realized that modifying my bustle era bodice would be a lot easier than trying to adapt a modern coat pattern since my bustle bodice already fit and had the curved back seams that were popular from the 1700s through to 1900s. (Possibly earlier, but I haven't really looked at the 1600s.) I extended the front shoulder pieces by two inches, and subtracted them from the back. I cropped it short and added two inches to the hem circumference so it wouldn't be overly tight. I followed Sensibility's instructions for constructing a spencer, but used Tea in a Teacup's idea of interlining it with cotton flannel. (She also gave me the inspiration of adding awesome shoulder thingys.)
|The jacket is burgundy linen blend, interlined with cotton flannel and lined with thin muslin.|
|Close up of shoulder cap, which has brown piping at the shoulder seam and yellow trim along the edge.|
|Spencer closes with hook and eyes. Front edge is piped in upholstery trim and left over yellow trim from my turban. Buttons are textured metal, and the bottom edge has the burgundy tassel fringe that I tried to use on my turban.|
|The side back seams are piped in brown, and a tab is piped with the trim from the front edge and sewn down with buttons.|
|The back. I should have added a half inch to the back armscye, as it has a tendency to pull. The back tab pulls in the waist slightly, and the extra fabric is stitched down in pleats to prevent shifting.|
|With matching turban|
|I apologize for weird formatting, Blogger is being an asshole. |
The Challenge: #22 Gentlemen
Fabric: Burgundy linen blend, red and brown cotton flannel remnants, muslin remnant
Pattern: Self made, adapted from my bustle era bodice
Year: 1800-1810. I picked and chose bits from styles I liked for a generally earlier Regency silhouette.
Notions: Cotton thread, metal buttons, polyblend piping, hooks and eyes, four kinds of yellow polyester trim and a burgundy polyester trim.
How historically accurate is it? The style and cut is good. The outer fabric should be pure linen, as should the thread, and I'm not sure how accurate cotton flannel interlining is. All of the trims are polyester, and it was machine stitched. Let's say 40%.
Hours to complete: 20 - 30.
First worn: About a week ago, to the grocery store to get ice cream. Not yet worn as part of a historical costume.
Total cost: The fabric was $11, the interlining was two remnants, total of about $5, the lining was $3. Most of the buttons were bought on clearance, though I did pay full price for one pack, total $5. Trims cost the most, but I think in total the spencer cost me around $40.